Varkala was a much looked forward to destination for the both of us. We are your typical beach bums and had read so much about the powdery soft sands and clear waters. We reached the sleepy little town pretty late in the afternoon and after a quick stop at our hotel headed down to the beach while the rest of the family stayed back to get over the travel fatigue.
The hotel we were at was the Deshadan again. Apart from the absolutely heartwarming service we received from the staff, the hotel itself left a bad taste. They really need to refurbish the place. We had a humongous spider visit one of the rooms and mosquitoes were in plenty even after the staff took pains to light “kachua” in and outside our rooms everyday. The property itself is beautiful and with such excellent staff, it’s a shame nobody is putting in more time and effort to better the place. As we were leaving, the manager offered to give us his bike keys to go down to the beach to ensure we got back safely. Varkala, being a small town, most places concerned about the safety of their guests prefer you back before dark. It was a short walk down, and we did not take him up on the offer but it did tell us so much about how much of himself the guy put in his work. Lesson in it for all of us. Almost all places we visit leave us with such fond memories of not only the places and the food, but the people. Makes you believe in the goodness that makes the world go round.
As we neared the beach, we saw a lot of hotels at the edge of the cliff and we would try to get a place in one of these if visiting again. The views must be breathtaking. High tide had rendered the paapnasam beach inaccessible and we had to make do with the black beach. The difference in both being, The paapnasam beach is usually thick with tourists, both indian and foreign, as the temple is right on the beach. The idea being to wash away your sins after a dip in the waters. Maybe the guy above just knew we had not committed enough to wash them away ;).
The way to the black beach, which stays underwater for most parts and is visible only when the other one goes under water, is either by climbing down a winding flight of stairs, which seemed way too mossy and slimy to be safely walked upon, or by climbing over the black boulders that flank the beach. As we got down, and it is fairly easy to do even for people who have a tendency to fall like moi, we felt our feet sink into lusciously thick and soft sand. The waters are beautiful and compared to the other beaches, pretty clean. A lot of the people seemed to be into yoga and beach sports, surfing et al. The shacks on top of the cliff , Cafe Del Mar and Trattoria’s, remind you instantly of some beautiful places you’ve been to in Goa. Varkala itself does the same, like a quieter, less crowded Goa.